the Repair & Design Futures exhibit
This weekend Polychrome subscribers had a chance to see this fantastic exhibit at the Rhode Island School of Design as a group. Below are some images and impressions from this fascinating show which is a celebration of sustainability and craftsmanship across cultures.
One of the prime directives in the fashion community at the moment is how to make the industry more sustainable. We all have heard time and time again about how fashion is one of the planet's top polluters. I have many personal acquaintances in the industry, talented designers who have been very dedicated and productive in their careers, now struggling with the moral conundrum of having contributed to the environmental disaster that fashion is a part of.
Of the many facets of discussion among industry insiders about the problem, one that really resonates is that the average consumer no longer cherishes the things they are purchasing in part because they are so cheap. They are not entirely wrong. Things that are cheaply made not only lack perceived value but also often lack intrinsic value. These things are in fact cheap - poor materials, not well crafted, and certainly not meant to last. Why would you cherish them enough to invest time or money to repair them? In an era where most people are stretched thin for time, repairing one's own clothes seems like a waste of energy and time especially when a brand new replacement can be bought easily and cheaply. This is not even taking into account that the act of mending, which was a regular and normal part of maintaining one's wardrobe as little as fifty years ago, is a dying art. Most people under the age of 50 did not have these once commonplace skills passed on to them.
artist Anne Marika Verploegh Chassé of Steifel Werks bespoke shoes giving a demo of her craft at the RISD Museum
This is the motivation behind RISD's "Repair & Design Futures" exhibit - to celebrate the art form of mending and repair. There are many fine examples of mending from pieces of clothing being repurposed to be something else to garments lovingly repaired with beautiful and intricate mending stitches, patchwork, and embroidery. We were very lucky to see this exhibit as a group this past Saturday, because it was also #InternationalRepairDay, which is held the 3rd Saturday each October. To mark this, the RISD Museum had many craftspeople present giving demos and repair workshops on shoes, clothing, and other items.
The range of pieces in the exhibit is a remarkable testimony to the fact that all cultures have participated in mending and in many places the clothes that have been mended have achieved a more elevated perception of status and beauty because of being so skillfully cared for.
There is a lovely example of this in a warrior's robe from North America which had been damaged several times in battle. Each time it was repaired, it was believed to be imbued with magic and protection for the next battle.
the exhibit includes many fine examples of North American indigenous textiles and clothing
It is apparently a modern construct to not value garments that have been lovingly restored in this way. A Polychrome guest mentioned that in Japanese tradition, the quilted Boro jackets and robes belonging to older men which were patched and repaired so skillfully (most often by their wives) denoted their venerated status in village society. The garments were a literal reflection of not only their years of life experience and wisdom, but also that they themselves were cherished members of families that loved them and honored them with such skillful workmanship. This is a wonderful sentiment. How can we return to this more sustainable mentality?